Maybe we can publish them ourselves! Self-pub is the way to go these days I reckon.

I’d be happy to help with any edits etc. Peace man. Talk soon

P.s. I think they get better with age too haha

Surfers, in general, are pretty easy going people. The expression “she’ll be right,” is as much ‘Australian’ as it is ‘Surfer’. And that seems to be the attitude surrounding someone with a potentially serious problem. Had it been an isolated incident, then maybe we would be overeating, but the fact is, it KEEPS HAPPENING!

As well as an unprecedented hero of the sport with an un-matched 11 world titles, there is other unique elements to our sport. The lifestyle. It is my firm belief that nobody got into surfing as a kid to be famous, or to be rich. Not like pushed and moulded like products to sell out to football or tennis by cash craving parents. No, we got into surfing to have fun, laugh with friends, spend time with our dad if he surfed. It’s the beach. Where you go to holiday, relax, cut your moorings to the office and drift.

But surfing is like gravity to the creative, alternative, the outsider. Get close and it draws you in, and you find yourself among others of the same ethos.

But…

What if your good? What if your talented? What if, you start getting the attention of the local surf shop, then a local board maker, get to go to the best parties. All of a sudden you have some equity. You register on some radars. At this point, you are a kid, a teen, your brain is still soft. Party is what all kids do? Hell I got arrested in vegas for pretending to shoot a transvestite hooker who robbed me… (long story). But, Andy would have partied, pro or not. He, like so many others were hungry for input, experience, good times. Lets me clear here, the dopamine hit, and the adrenalin your own endocrine system, your bodies dealer, gives you when you paddle out, make a big drop, stick your first full rotation, take three on the head and come out smiling, is exactly the same as heroin. Well it is to your brain. The better we get at surfing the more the need.

As well as an unprecedented hero of the sport with an un-matched 11 world titles, there is other unique elements to our sport. The lifestyle. It is my firm belief that nobody got into surfing as a kid to be famous, or to be rich. Not like pushed and moulded like products to sell out to football or tennis by cash craving parents. No, we got into surfing to have fun, laugh with friends, spend time with our dad if he surfed. It’s the beach. Where you go to holiday, relax, cut your moorings to the office and drift.

But surfing is like gravity to the creative, alternative, the outsider. Get close and it draws you in, and you find yourself among others of the same ethos.

But…

What if your good? What if your talented? What if, you start getting the attention of the local surf shop, then a local board maker, get to go to the best parties. All of a sudden you have some equity. You register on some radars. At this point, you are a kid, a teen, your brain is still soft. Party is what all kids do? Hell I got arrested in vegas for pretending to shoot a transvestite hooker who robbed me… (long story). But, Andy would have partied, pro or not. He, like so many others were hungry for input, experience, good times. Lets me clear here, the dopamine hit, and the adrenalin your own endocrine system, your bodies dealer, gives you when you paddle out, make a big drop, stick your first full rotation, take three on the head and come out smiling, is exactly the same as heroin. Well it is to your brain. The better we get at surfing the more the need.

Of those I’ve spoken too, there is the pressure to surf well, get all over the world, do signings, clothing shoots, contests, publicity… it is a job. I know people who ‘use’ cos they have to be smiley at an event, up early for a flight, but feel they can’t be off or tired, so they use more. So when there is time, and a party, they go nuts. I have mixed views on the ASP, but, they need to step up and protect THEIR investments. BE the role model to kids, protect the emotional welfare of the kids they are exploiting. Cos lets face it, half the tour are late teens, early 20′s. The QS is a grind, there is pressure a plenty. The ASP should have managers who not only manage careers but the expectations and the welfare. Drugs testing yes, along with a more open, hands on ASP. They are the ‘association’ of professional surfing. Not just a contest promotion and cash extraction service.

As well as an unprecedented hero of the sport with an un-matched 11 world titles, there is other unique elements to our sport. The lifestyle. It is my firm belief that nobody got into surfing as a kid to be famous, or to be rich. Not like pushed and moulded like products to sell out to football or tennis by cash craving parents. No, we got into surfing to have fun, laugh with friends, spend time with our dad if he surfed. It’s the beach. Where you go to holiday, relax, cut your moorings to the office and drift.

But surfing is like gravity to the creative, alternative, the outsider. Get close and it draws you in, and you find yourself among others of the same ethos.

But…

What if your good? What if your talented? What if, you start getting the attention of the local surf shop, then a local board maker, get to go to the best parties. All of a sudden you have some equity. You register on some radars. At this point, you are a kid, a teen, your brain is still soft. Party is what all kids do? Hell I got arrested in vegas for pretending to shoot a transvestite hooker who robbed me… (long story). But, Andy would have partied, pro or not. He, like so many others were hungry for input, experience, good times. Lets me clear here, the dopamine hit, and the adrenalin your own endocrine system, your bodies dealer, gives you when you paddle out, make a big drop, stick your first full rotation, take three on the head and come out smiling, is exactly the same as heroin. Well it is to your brain. The better we get at surfing the more the need.

Of those I’ve spoken too, there is the pressure to surf well, get all over the world, do signings, clothing shoots, contests, publicity… it is a job. I know people who ‘use’ cos they have to be smiley at an event, up early for a flight, but feel they can’t be off or tired, so they use more. So when there is time, and a party, they go nuts. I have mixed views on the ASP, but, they need to step up and protect THEIR investments. BE the role model to kids, protect the emotional welfare of the kids they are exploiting. Cos lets face it, half the tour are late teens, early 20′s. The QS is a grind, there is pressure a plenty. The ASP should have managers who not only manage careers but the expectations and the welfare. Drugs testing yes, along with a more open, hands on ASP. They are the ‘association’ of professional surfing. Not just a contest promotion and cash extraction service.

As well as an unprecedented hero of the sport with an un-matched 11 world titles, there is other unique elements to our sport. The lifestyle. It is my firm belief that nobody got into surfing as a kid to be famous, or to be rich. Not like pushed and moulded like products to sell out to football or tennis by cash craving parents. No, we got into surfing to have fun, laugh with friends, spend time with our dad if he surfed. It’s the beach. Where you go to holiday, relax, cut your moorings to the office and drift.

But surfing is like gravity to the creative, alternative, the outsider. Get close and it draws you in, and you find yourself among others of the same ethos.

But…

What if your good? What if your talented? What if, you start getting the attention of the local surf shop, then a local board maker, get to go to the best parties. All of a sudden you have some equity. You register on some radars. At this point, you are a kid, a teen, your brain is still soft. Party is what all kids do? Hell I got arrested in vegas for pretending to shoot a transvestite hooker who robbed me… (long story). But, Andy would have partied, pro or not. He, like so many others were hungry for input, experience, good times. Lets me clear here, the dopamine hit, and the adrenalin your own endocrine system, your bodies dealer, gives you when you paddle out, make a big drop, stick your first full rotation, take three on the head and come out smiling, is exactly the same as heroin. Well it is to your brain. The better we get at surfing the more the need….